The Cartier Legacy

Cartier bib necklace made for the Duchess of Windsor, 1947


Cartier in America, a fascinating exhibition at the Legion of Honor through May 9, 2010, blends social history, fashion and jewelry design. The exhibition takes the viewer through the eras of Cartier’s reign as the “King of Jewelers” since its foundation in Paris by Louis-François Cartier in 1847.

The pieces displayed, most from the private Cartier collection, range from traditional white diamonds placed into magnificent tiaras, bangles and rings, colorful baubles like the famed “Tutti Frutti” necklace, small accessories and purses and the infamous Mystery Clocks, produced between 1913 and 1954, collectibles that still remain an innovative Cartier secret.

Cartier opened its first US store in New York City in 1909, and for the first time celebrities and socialites in America had to look no further than their own backyards for their desired jewels. Many of these famous socialites, actresses and the international elite had their stories told throughout the exhibition with pictures of them and the jewels they once wore. The exhibition also centers on Cartier as a pioneer, one of the first to use platinum settings and to use cultural influences from Asia, India and Egypt in his designs while always using the finest and most precious gems.

This breathtaking and informative exhibition also includes examples of drafts and drawings of the jewelry in the first stages of design and a video showcasing the many laborious steps and hours needed to creating such fines pieces of art. Many of the pieces displayed had been altered or reset over time, in order for their wearer keep up with the ever changing fashion and style trends throughout the 20th century.

Cartier, the man and the brand, is truly pioneering in all fields of accessory and jewelry design and manufacturing, having lavished the most precious jewels on some of the most famous members of 20th century society and creating the most outstanding empire of jewelry worldwide for over 100 years.